How to Photograph Christmas Lights and Animated Displays

To photograph Christmas lights well, try shooting around dusk or after dark, start with the flash off, hold the camera steady and check how the bright lights appear in a test frame. Animated pixel displays add one wrinkle: the lights change and can flicker on camera, so you need to think about shutter speed too. Below you will find starting points to test, a plan for keepsake photos and video, and a separate tip for the plain daytime photo you need if you want to plan an EZRGB show.
Every setting here is a starting experiment, not a universal value. Cameras, phones, and displays differ, so check your own device’s manual and test a few frames before the evening you care about.
Two kinds of photos, two different jobs
Most people mix these up, so separate them from the start.
| Keepsake photo or video | Planning photo | |
|---|---|---|
| Purpose | Capture the finished show at night | Show your house clearly to a design tool |
| Time of day | Blue hour or after dark | Daylight, even light |
| Lights | On, animated | Off, or not installed yet |
| Style | Creative, moody, bokeh welcome | Straight on, flat, sharp, nothing blocking the facade |
The keepsake shot is what this article mostly covers. The planning photo is covered near the end, because it is what lets you preview a display before you buy anything.
Pick the right time: the blue hour
Try shooting while some light remains in the sky, then compare frames as it gets darker. This is a creative starting point: choose the balance between the house, sky and lights that suits your photograph rather than treating one short window as mandatory.

Because the blue hour is short, set up your camera position before sunset and start shooting as the sky darkens. Try a frame every few minutes and pick your favorite later.
Turn the flash off
For a photo of the display itself, start with the built-in flash off. Canon’s holiday-light photography guide recommends this approach. Photographing a person in front of the lights is a different task and may need different choices.
Hold the camera still
Use a stable tripod or another secure support when trying longer exposures. A support reduces camera movement; it cannot stop the animated pattern from changing during the exposure. Compare results rather than assuming a longer capture is always better.
Even on a tripod, pressing the shutter can shake the camera. Use the self-timer at 2 or 3 seconds, or a remote release, so the camera is motionless when the exposure starts.
No tripod? Brace your phone against a fence post, car roof, or a stack of books, and let it do the same work.
Starting settings for a camera
If your camera has manual or aperture-priority modes, try this and adjust:
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ISO: choose it alongside shutter speed and aperture. A low value can be useful with steady support, but a changing display may require a different balance. Do not assume a tripod makes higher ISO unnecessary.
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Exposure: inspect the bright lights in a test frame. If they lose detail or color, try reducing exposure using the controls supported by your camera. There is no fixed compensation value for every scene.
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Aperture: a middle aperture gives a sharper house. For soft glowing circles, use a wide aperture, f/4 or wider, or defocus the lens by hand. Nikon’s guide to the bokeh effect suggests the fastest aperture your lens offers.
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Shutter speed: see the flicker section below, because animated lights change the answer.
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White balance: try a preset, then adjust until the white snow or siding looks natural to you.
Starting points for a phone
Modern phones switch to low-light processing on their own. On supported iPhones, Night mode brightens photos and captures more detail, and the exposure time can be adjusted manually. Pixel phones have a similar low-light mode, and Google’s help page explains that it works best when the device is steady and the flash is off.
A few habits help on any phone:
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Tap the brightest part of the display to set focus, then slide the exposure down until the bulbs keep their color.
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Hold still, or use a small phone tripod, through the whole capture.
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Clean the lens with a soft cloth. A smudge turns every bulb into a streak.
For exact steps on your model, follow the manufacturer’s current guidance, since menus change with software updates.
Why can animated lights look partly off in photos?
Some LED lighting cycles rapidly, and a camera exposure can record a different appearance from what you see directly. Canon’s guide demonstrates lights appearing off at fast shutter speeds and suggests experimenting with a slower shutter. That general example does not establish an EZRGB pixel refresh rate.
Try several settings and compare frames. A longer exposure can also blend changing effects together, so the best setting depends on whether you want a distinct moment or a softer impression of motion. Consult your camera manual for any anti-flicker options available on your model; no single shutter value guarantees a fix.
Photos versus video of an animated show
A still shows one frame of a show that is really about motion. Consider doing both.
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Stills: take many frames during a bright, colorful moment of the song, then choose the one where the roofline, arches, and windows all look lit.
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Video: mount the phone on a tripod, start recording before the song begins, and let the full sequence play. Video captures the sync with the music, which a photo cannot.
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Audio: if you want music in the clip, record close to your speaker or radio output, and expect some background noise.
Shoot safely from the right spot
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Stay on your own property, a sidewalk, or a safe, legal spot. Do not stand or set up a tripod in the street.
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Never block a driveway, a lane, or neighbors’ views.
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Keep tripod legs out of walking paths so no one trips in the dark.
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If you photograph someone else’s display, check that you are not blocking traffic and be considerate of the people who live there.
Photograph the actual show
Watch the sequence before choosing what to record. A useful still might emphasize one outline or a colorful moment; a video can show the changes over time. Test the camera with the display you actually installed rather than expecting a planning preview to reproduce the camera’s final image.
Use the controls in your camera or phone for photography. This guide does not assume a camera tool, photographic test pattern or automatic flicker correction in EZPlayer.
The clear house photo for Designer planning
This is the other photo, and it is not a keepsake. Take it in daylight, standing straight on, far enough back to include the whole front of the house.
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Choose an overcast or evenly lit time, without long shadows across the facade.
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Keep the camera level and square to the house, not at a steep angle.
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Clear away cars, bins, and ladders blocking the view.
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Measure a door or window, so you have a known dimension.
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Upload the photo to the Designer, draw a box around that measured door or window, and enter its dimensions so the photo is scaled.
Once the photo is scaled, props are sized to scale and the drawing tools for rooflines, curves, doors and windows estimate light quantities. EZRGB determines the equipment, so you do not need to match controllers, pixels or extension cords yourself. Start in the EZRGB Designer and confirm uncertain physical estimates where needed.
Ready to build something worth photographing
If you want a display that is easy to set up and fun to film, start with our plug and play kits. Kits include the listed extensions and equipment, apart from house-specific mounting hardware. Sequences and music are sold separately from the kit. Browse our RGB sequences. Setting up a kit requires the cloud, which is how you download the files and sequences and configure your show.
New to pixels? Our beginner guide from photo to show covers the whole path.
FAQ
What camera settings should I use for Christmas lights?
Start with a stable camera and flash off for the display itself. Adjust exposure, shutter speed, aperture and ISO together after reviewing a test frame. Exact settings depend on the scene, device and effect you want.
How do I photograph Christmas lights with my phone?
Shoot at dusk with the flash off and Night mode or Night Sight on, and keep the phone steady. Tap the lights to focus and lower the exposure so the bulbs keep their color. Follow your phone maker’s current guidance for your model.
Why do my animated lights look striped or partly off in photos?
Some LED lighting can appear different in a camera exposure. Try another shutter speed and compare frames; longer exposures can blend animated effects too. No single value guarantees a fix, and this does not establish the refresh rate of an EZRGB product.
Should I use the same photo for planning and for keepsakes?
No. Use a clear daylight photo of the house for Designer planning, and take your night photos separately once the show is running.
